Thursday, February 8, 2007

Wine making in French

Wine making in France
It is difficult to speak of winemaking. The saying goes in France there are as many wines as vineyards. Every winemaker brings his one touch before, during, and after the wine making process. Each choice in the successive steps of the elaboration of wine has repercussions on the taste and the quality of the wine :
The choice of the terroir
The climate (and the date of harvest)
The choice of the grape-variety, it is determinant
The type of container in which the fermentation will take place
The temperature at which the juice of grape is maintained during the fermentation
The fermentation period
The type of container in which the maturation will take place
Nobody can pretend there is only one unique method of making wine. That is the beauty of wine as winemakers are also responsible for the incredible diversity of wines we can choose from. Needless to say that winemaking requires "savoir-faire" and experience. A winemaker is not only an artisan but also an artist.
11 steps to make wine
The following steps are informative only! They give an idea how wine is made:
plantation (or grafting) of a vine stock
growing of the grape-bunch
harvesting the grapes
de-stemming* and crushing the grapes
alcoholic fermentation of the liquid
maceration*
raking the wine
malolactic fermentation
maturation of the wine
bottling the wine
tasting the wine
* : only for red wine, normally
Must : it is the grape-juice produced by crushing.Alcoholic fermentation : the juice becomes wine under the natural action of yeast which changes sugar in alcohol.Maceration : the pomace (skin, pips and stems) impregnate the must giving body and color.Raking : pomace and must are separated. The must becomes "vin de goutte", the pomace becomes "vin de presse".Malolactic fermentation : under the action of natural bacteria, the harsh malic acid changes itself in lactic acid supple and stable.Maturation : the wine is clarified and put in casks/barrels to stabilize and perfects itself.
Red wine making
The steps in the red wine making process are:Crushing and destemming the grapesThe grapes just arriving in the cellar are crushed and destemmed to release their juice and pulp.The must obtained that way is put in a tank to go trough the process of fermentation.Alcoholic fermentationFermentation is a natural process. Yeasts living in the grapes - the addition of selected yeasts is generalizing - change the sugar contained in the must in alcohol and carbonic gas (see also the composition of Wines).The winemaker assist the action of the yeasts by maintaining the temperature around 25 to 30°C and by ventilating the must regularly. Under 25°C the wine will not have enough body, above 30°C, the wine will be to tannic.The fermentation process goes on for 4 to 10 days until the maceration and then the malolactic fermentation.
MacerationIt is the period when the tannic elements and the color of the skin diffuse in the fermented juice. The contact between the liquid (must) and the solids elements (skin, pips and sometimes stem) will give body and color to the wine.At this stage, complex operation will prove the talent of the winemaker: dissolution, extraction, excretion, diffusion, decoction, infusion.For "Vins primeurs" or "Vins nouveaux" (new wines) the maceration is very short. The vines are supple and contain little tannin. Wines destined to be kept long need a lot of tannin, so the maceration needs to be long. The wine will macerate for several days, maybe several weeks.RakingThe wine is separated from the solids, the pomace. The wine obtained by raking is called "free run wine" (vin de goutte).Sometimes, the pomace is pressed in order to extract the juice it still contains. This wine is called "press wine" (vin de presse). It is richer in tannin.Depending on the winemaker taste or the local habit, free run wine and press wine are blended or treated separately.Malolactic fermentationIt is the process during which the malic acid of wine changes into lactic acid and carbonic gas under the action of bacteria living in the wine. Malic acid is harsh, it is changed into lactic acid supple and stable.This fermentation is obtained in a tank during a few weeks at a temperature between 18° and 20°C.StabilizationThe wine making process is finished but the wine is not. To be able to age and to improve the wine must be clarified again. After that the beverage will be put in oak casks where it will stabilize.The diversity of red wine is such that it can match any type of food. But you must absolutely not conclude from this that all red wines taste the same
White wine making
White wine is not really white but, in fact yellow. But the expression being universal one says of a yellow wine that it is white.Vinification of white wine is more delicate than vinification of red wine.Two methods coexist to make white wine:1. The first one is to use white grape ( which is in fact green, greenish yellow, golden yellow or pinkish yellow!). That way the white wine is the result of the fermentation of the juice of white grapes juice only.2. The second method is more complex. One uses the juice of red grape-variety cleared of it skin and pips, with which it must absolutely not get in contact as they contain the coloring substances. It is possible to get white wine that way but it is seldom done (see also 11 steps to make wine).

Time is counted :Immediately after their arrival in the cellar, the grapes are crushed but not destemed. The juice (free run must) is sent to settle in containers. The rest of the grapes is pressed as quickly as possible. Air is the enemy of white wine. At its contact the wine oxidizes or becomes colored. The must from pressing is added to the free run must.Preparation of the must :After six to twelve hours the particles and impurity of the grape separate from the must and float on the surface. They are removed by the raking of must. The must is ready to be clarified. The clarified juice is poured in a tank, ready to ferment.Alcoholic fermentation :White wine results of the fermentation of must only.No solid (stem, skin, pips...) intervenes.The control of the temperature is essential. It has to be maintained around 18° C. The winemaker regularly cools the must to allow the yeast to work correctly.The fermentation goes on for two to three weeks. The winemaker daily checks the evolution of the process.When fermentation is over, the wine is put in cask and raked, just like a red wine then it is bottled.Winemakers often choose oak casks which gives the wine the tannin it needs. But it will not be sufficient, tannin is the essential element for aging. It is why white wine does not keep as long as red wine. On the other hand white wines present a larger variety of tastes: very dry, dry, semi-dry, mellow, syrupy, petillant, sparkling, madeirized...White wine can be drunk on any occasion: before, with or after a meal, and even between meals.White wines are often considered as aperitif wines, sometimes as desert wines. Many people like to drink white wine in hot weather. Its refreshing qualities are very well known. White wine is served fresh but not chilled.
Rosé wine making
First of all Rosé wine is not a blending of red and white wine (abstraction made of the exceptional case of Champagne Rosé.Rosé wine is made from red grape-varieties. And, nowadays, many winemakers mix a certain amount of white grapes with the red.The elaboration of rosé wine is delicate. It is probably why the amateur is sometimes disappointed by the quality of a rosé. Particularity, European rosé is "dry". On the contrary, American rosé is sweet and similar to white wine.There are at least three methods of making rosé wine:Gray or pale rosé wineThe grapes are pressed as soon as they arrive in the cellar. It allows a quicker diffusion of the color in the must.The juice is left a very short time in contact with the skin. No more than a few hours! That way the must is delicately colored.Rosé wine is then made in the same way as a white wine, fermentation of the must cleared of solid elements with out any more maceration. The winemaker obtains a gray or pale rosé wine (for Gris de Bourgogne or Rosé de Loire).Colored pink wineTo obtain a colored pink wine the grapes are put in the fermentation tank after having been crushed. The juice quickly enriches itself in alcohol with the temperature going up (in the tank).At the contact of the solid element the color quickly diffuses. The winemaker chooses the intensity of the color by controlling a sample every hour. When he is satisfied he devattes.The wine is evacuated in another tank to finish fermenting. The must left in the original tank is evacuated and not used for rosé any more.The bleedingTo obtain an even more intense color, once an hour, during the initial fermentation the winemaker takes out of the tank a certain amount of juice.When the color is satisfying, the wine making process goes on as for a white wine. Rosé de Provence are obtain by that method.
Why wine does not turn into vinegar ?
Sulphur dioxide, in spite of its barbaric name, is an element indispensable for the quality of the wine (see composition of wine).It is composed of sulphur and oxygen. Fermentation naturally produces small amount of it.Winemakers add more to the wine. Sulphur dioxide is to wine what aspirin is to human beings: the miraculous remedy which cures all sort of diseases and avoids others.Sulphur dioxide is a bactericide which prevents wine from changing into vinegar. It inhibates the action of yeasts; it is why sweet wines do not go on fermenting after bottling.On top of that it is an antioxidizer. It allows wine to keep all its freshness and avoids its alteration by its enemy: the oxygen.
Wine components
Nearly one thousand components have up to now been identified.Wine contains 85 to 90% water.It also comprises ethyl acid resulting from yeasts fermentation. All wine incorporate some acidity from organic acids among which is tartric acid characteristic of grape.The mineral composition of wine is special as it contains potassium, calcium, magnesium, sodium, iron, sulfates, phosphoruses, all of which necessary to cover daily needs of human beings.Potassium salts and sulfates are known to facilitate diuresis. Wine also comprises polyols among which glycol which gives the sweet taste. Wine contains a small amount of azoted substances as well as 20 amineted acids among which proline can be found.It is surprising to notice that the concentration of amineted acid in wine is very close to that of human blood!Wine contains vitamins of the group B, and, above all vitamin P which reinforces the cell-wall of capillary vessels, lessening the risks of hemorrhage and oedema.Wine also comprises more specific components which give it its personality (aroma components) such as phenolic components. The phenolic component is an element whose molecule incorporates several phenolic functions among which are phenolic acids, anthocyanes and tannin.
Wine varieties Red
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc is grown mainly in the Bordeaux region. In Pomerol and Saint-Emilion it is known as "Bouchet". This grape-variety is also present in the Madiran vines as "Bouchy". Further north, in the Loire Valley and, particularly in Touraine and in Saumur it sometimes appears as "Breton".Cabernet Franc is a grape-variety which gives small bunches of tiny blackberries. Vine growers appreciate it because it is not demanding and any soil is convenient.Cabernet Franc wine, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon wine, is of a bright and shinny color. It brings strawberry and blackberry aromas. However because it is less perfumed and structured, it is often associated to other vine-varieties.
The only terroirs to supply pure Cabernet Franc are the red wines from Loire Valley : Bourgueil, Chinon and Saumur-Champigny red only.
Aromas: strawberry, blackberry
French wines: Pomerol, Saint Emilion, Bourgueil, Saumur, Madiran, etc
Cabernet Sauvignon
First of all a typically Bordeaux vine-variety, the Cabernet Sauvignon also grows in the Loire Valley, in Languedoc Roussillon, Provence and in the South West.In Bordeaux region, mainly in Graves and in Médoc, where vine growers sometime calls it "Petit Cabernet", Cabernet represents over half the planted grape-varieties. In wine, Cabernet Sauvignon is traditionally associated to Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Cabernet Sauvignon small bunches give a strong in tannic wine with aromas of blackcurrant and green pepper. Therefore the wine is harsh when young but develops a very delicate bouquet in aging.Californian vine growers have managed to produce very good wines of the Cabernet Sauvignon variety which up to now seemed to be exclusively reserved to Médoc terroirs.
Aromas: black currant, violet
French wines: Médoc, Graves, Margaux, Bergerac, etc
Carignan
Carignan is widely present in the south of France, in Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence.It is used mainly to produce strong "Vin de Table" in large quantity. But Carignan is also associated to varieties such as Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah.Carignan is a hot country vine-variety, it does not like damp. It is why it is grown in Spain and Algeria.Carignan enters in the composition of famous Roussillon sweet wines such as Banyuls and Rivesaltes.
Aromas: black fruits, black pepper, licorice
French wines: Cotes du Roussillon, Corbières, Saint Chinian, etc
Cinsault
Cinsault (or Cinsaut) is one of the oldest south of France variety. Even nowadays it is impossible to determinate its origins, between Provence and Languedoc.The Cinsault is a hill-side grape-variety. It is the reason for which it is always associated to other varieties: Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah.Cinsault produces large grains, very sweet and juicy.Although not well known, this variety contributes to the production of excellent wines such as Saint-Georges d'Orques (Languedoc).
Aromas: red fruits
French wines: Coteaux du Languedoc, Cotes de Provence, Chateauneuf du Pape, Cotes du Ventoux, etc
Gamay
Gamay is the only grape which comes in the Beaujolais wines. In fact it gets its name from a hamlet near Puligny-Montrachet.Gamay reaches perfection in the granitic soil of Beaujolais region. Gamay produces red grapes with white juice, smooth and fruity. The wine can be consumed young.Else where, Gamay grape-variety does badly on light soils. However one can find admirable examples of acclimatisation, specially in Touraine and in the counties of Napa and San Benito where the wine is sold under the appellation "Gamay du Beaujolais"(?).
Aromas: strawberry, cherry, spice
French wines: Beaujolais, Touraine, etc
Grenache
Grenache grows in the Rhône Valley and the Languedoc-Roussillon. It particularly appreciates sun.The sweet grape give colored wines rich in alcohol.In the past, one liked pure Grenache wines which could reach 17° proof. Today Grenache is associated to Syrah and Mourvèdre.Grenache is a grape-variety essential in the excellent sweet wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon, such as Banyuls.
Aromas: red fruits, lavender, thyme
French wines: Chateauneuf du Pape, Cotes du Rhone, Coteaux du Languedoc, Cotes de Provence, etc
Merlot
Merlot is a Bordeaux region grape-variety. Merlot is the most important grape in the Bordeaux region. It is classified in the Cabernet group.
It is a fragile grape, sensible to dryness as well as cold. Merlot gives a richly colored wine, with body and softness.Merlot matures quickly. This grape has less tannins than Cabernets. It is one of the most productive grapes. Merlot is the perfect variety to accompany Cabernets.Merlot can be found in several countries... as far as in Russia.
Aromas: blackcurrant, blackberry
French wines: Pomerol, Saint Emilion, Cahors, etc
Mourvèdre
Mourvèdre grape is very well known in the Rhône Valley. It is one of the older grape-variety present in France. One can consider it was born in Provence.This grape variety resists very well to high temperatures and prefers stony soil. Mourvèdre produces a bluish juicy berry. It is used to make full-bodied and deep wines. This is why it is associated to Cinsault and Grenache.The Mourvèdre variety was destroyed by the too famous Phylloxera. Thanks to the Mediterranean vinegrowers efforts, it has regained its importance.
Mourvèdre is known in Spain as Monastrell where the grape variety is widely used.
Aromas: black fruits, licorice
French wines: Bandol, Gigondas, Chateauneuf du Pape, Coteaux du Languedoc, etc
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir (Black Pinot) is very popular in Burgundy. It is an admirable red grape-variety. We owe it the Big Bourgogne ... and Champagne wines. In Champagne it is associated to Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier!The grapes of Pinot Noir are tiny and very tight around the stem. The juice is sweet uncolored. It is the colored component of the skin which dissolving in contact with the juice gives the wine its glistening colour. It brings summer fruit aromas.Pinot Noir comes in the composition of Jura and Alsace wines as well as in rosé de Sancerre.Pinot Noir cluster looks like a pine cone, from which it gets its name!
Aromas: cherry, blackcurrant, licorice
French wines: Vosne Romanée, Clos Vougeot, Pommard, etc
Syrah
Syrah (or Serine) is supposed to have been brought in the south of France from the region of Syracuse by the Roman.The vine-variety is the principal grape in the north of the Rhône Valley. Syrah appreciates poor soil and hot climate.The Syrah wine is strong, rich and colored with aromas of pepper, violet or raspberry, depending up on the soil.We owe to Syrah the big Côtes du Rhône such as Côte Rotie or Hermitage and also Languedoc-Roussillon wines.Syrah perfectly acclimated itself in California, Australia and South Africa.
Aromas: raspberry, black pepper, licorice, violet
French wines: Chateauneuf du Pape, Cote Rotie, Hermitage, Coteaux du Languedoc, Cotes de Provence, etc

Wine varieties White
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is the most famous grape-variety throughout the world. For several centuries it has been the only grape used for white Bourgogne. It is also one of the main variety used in the elaboration of Champagne. In The Champagne region, Chardonnay vinified on its one is called "Blanc de Blanc".The grains are shiny and golden. Chardonnay are among the best white wines, thick and delicate, traditionally dry. Depending on there origin some of them can be aged for several years.Chardonnay grows in most wine producing countries. Its name is borrowed from a village of the region of Macon (Burgundy)!
Aromas: apple, linden, almond
French wines: Chablis, Meursault, Montrachet, Pouilly-Fuissé, Anjou, Saumur, etc
Chenin Blanc
Chenin Blanc or Pineau de la Loire is the grape-variety which produces the best white wines of Anjou and Touraine. It has nothing in common with grapes of the Pinot family.The variety gives all its fullness in the Loire Valley, elsewhere it did not acclimate.Chenin Blanc is used for dry and sweet wines. It is subject to noble rot and for that reason is harvested as late as possible, sometimes in november. Chenin Blanc wines such as Vouvray and Saumur age very well.Rabelais, already, wrote about Chenin!
Aromas: apple, cinnamon, quince
French wines: Vouvray, Saumur, Anjou, Coteaux du Layon, etc
Clairette
Clairette is a southern grape-variety. It is one of the oldest. It is used with others in white and rosé wines of Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence and Rhône Valley.Clairette is used for some "muscats" and for sparkling wines such as the famous Clairette de Die in the Drome. It happens to be associated to other varieties in the white wines of Provence and, even in the red wine of Châteauneuf du Pape.Clairette gives a high degree of alcohol. And it madeirizes quickly. In the past it was considered one of its best points, nowadays it is regarded as a fault.
Aromas: peach, apricot
French wines: Coteaux du Languedoc, Chateauneuf du Pape, Bandol, etc
Muscadelle
Muscadelle is a white grape-variety from the Bordeaux region. It is associated to Sauvignon and Semillon in the Graves wines and in the universally famous Sauternes.Muscadelle matures very fast and its grapes are quickly invaded by noble rot which gives it a very pronounced taste.Muscadelle is not classified among the Muscat family.
Aroma: acacia
French wines: Sauternes, Graves, Monbazillac, etc
Pinot Gris
Pinot Gris is an Alsatian grape-variety. It is also called "Tokay d'Alsace". Pinot Gris is used for the intense white wines of this region.Pinot Gris grape is a very exacting variety with small bluish grains. Its character varies depending on good or bad season. It might be light and fruity or robust.The Tokay d'Alsace has nothing to do with Hungarian Tokay.
Aromas: dried fruits, wood, spice
French wines: Tokay Pino Gris information
Sauvignon
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best French grape-variety. It is the reason why it has been selected in several regions.Sauvignon grape is used for Pouilly-Fumé and Quincy and it is the exclusive variety used to in Sancerre. Sauvignon is mostly a Loire variety. In the Bordeaux region it is used as well as other white varieties to elaborate Graves and Sauternes. It is also used in South West or Provence wines.Sauvignon Blanc gives wines an herbal character with aromas of mineral and melon.In the Loire Valley, Sauvignon wines have acquired such a renown that there are the "vins de Sauvignon" (Sauvignon wines) and the others.
Aromas: melon, mineral
French wines: Pouilly Fumé, Sancerre, Entre Deux Mers, Sauternes, Graves, etc
Semillon Blanc
Semillon Blanc grows mainly in the Bordeaux region and in the South West. Vinegrowers associate it to Sauvignon and Muscadelle in the elaboration of Sauternes and Graves.The Semillon produces a lively and dry white wine. Excellent sweet white wines are also made from Semillon Blanc as its grains are very sweet and low in acid.Like that of Muscadelle its grapes are quickly invaded by noble rot.As for most of the Bordeaux grape-variety, Semillon is nowadays cultivated in California.
Aromas: honey, lemon, linden
French wines: Graves, Sauternes, Monbazillac, etc
Ugni Blanc
Ugni Blanc is a widely spread white grape-variety. It exists in many "terroirs" in the south of France.Under the name of "Saint-Emilion" it is the predominant in Cognac. Ugni Blanc grows also in Languedoc, Provence and Corsica where vinegrowers use it for its freshness.In fact Ugni Blanc is the base of several dry white wines. Ugni Blanc can be found in most of Italian white wines.
Aroma: banana
French wines: Coteaux du Languedoc, Cotes de Provence, Cotes du Rhone, etc
Viognier
A few years ago, Viognier was a rarity. In 1965, only 8 hectares were found almost exclusively in Condrieu in the northern Rhône. Nowadays, this stylish exotically aromatic variety has been noticed, and is spreading across the south of France in Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence, as well as in California.Viognier produces an intense, dry white wine, lots of fruit and a flavour mingling apricot, apple, peach and violet with a hint of honey.
Viognier is best drunk young. It is beautiful with spicy Asiatic dishes or with medium to strong cheeses. It is also an unusual choice for simply prepared lobster, roast chicken and sole or trout.
Aromas: apricot, violet, apple
French wines: Condrieu, Cote Rotie, Coteaux du Languedoc, etc

A " terroir " is a group of vineyards (or even vines) from the same region, belonging to a specific appellation, and sharing the same type of soil, weather conditions, grapes and wine making savoir-faire, which contribute to give its specific personality to the wine.

1 comment:

Catherine said...

Your article on French wine is so wonderfully detailed and clear. Wine is almost a religion in France...

Cathy
Rocket French